Alpine cuisine has existed in Austria for as long as there have been mountains and people living amidst them. One of the first to give it a higher profile was Andreas Döllerer of Restaurant Döllerer in Golling near Salzburg, who, in his first cookbook published in 2007, dedicated it to his “Cuisine Alpine”.
His second cookbook came out in 2016, aptly named “Cuisine Alpine”. It also documents impressively Döllerer’s development into a star chef of the Alpine region with his own distinctive cooking style. It is both a cookbook and a good read, conveying the power and charm of his regionally inspired cooking philosophy. The book likewise presents Döllerer’s most important producers as well as their collaboration with the chef and his team, very much symbolizing the synergy which exists between Austria’s top chefs and their suppliers. Without the country’s innovative, quality-focused agriculture, the Austrian culinary wonder simply would never have been possible.
Through his various efforts, Andreas Döllerer is formulating his vision for the ongoing development of Alpine cuisine and its integral role in positioning Austria as a culinary nation.
Many recipes are based on typical traditional dishes which the Döllerer family – five generations of whom have operated restaurants and a butcher’s shop since 1909 – love to cook, now every bit as much as they did in the past – such as blueberry fritters, liver-dumpling soup and farmhouse-style doughnuts.
The most important role in “Cuisine alpine” is played by modern signature dishes: fennel baked in a crust of salt dough incorporating glacial grindings, an Alpine miso soup, burbot with wild broccoli and white poppy, alpine scallop, milk-calf sweetbreads with Jerusalem artichoke and whey, as well as many other dishes. All of which clearly demonstrate how it is possible, if a cook focuses on them intensively, to take seemingly unspectacular products from the Alpine regions and develop them into splendid, subtle dishes.
In this regard, Andreas Döllerer has constantly fine-tuned his astonishing expertise over the course of his career!
Published by Edition A la Carte in German and English
Author Alexander Rabl, Photos & Styling by Joerg Lehmann