Andreas Döllerer of the Restaurant Döllerer in Golling, near Salzburg, Austria, has been a figurehead of contemporary alpine cuisine for years. Among his signature dishes is the inimitable Alpine Scallop.
In the restaurant in Golling, employees are encouraged to not tell the guests exactly what is behind the dish while they’re ordering.
“This dish plays with the curiosity of the guests, who want to find out how ‘alpine’ and ‘scallop’ fit together,” explains Andreas Döllerer. “It works best when guests are prepared to embark on a new taste experience without any reservation. It’s always a dish that polarises – and that’s a good thing!”
This dish was created on New Year’s Eve 2014, spontaneously inspired by portions of beef marrow, which can strongly resemble the meat of the scallop – especially when placed on a scallop shell. At this point, Andreas and his team steadily developed the dish further.
The beef marrow is cooked for 20 minutes at 70 degrees Celcius in the oven, then flamed with a culinary torch and placed with Dashi stock in the shell. The mountains and the sea are subtly combined in this dish. Kombu seaweed and bonito flakes bring out the sea flavours in the Dashi stock. Ginger, lime, lemongrass, soy sauce and miso paste all underscore the complex flavours of the stock, which is also enhanced with vegetables, parsley and beef marrow fat.
Egg yolk cream (the yolk is frozen, thawed, smoked and made into a cream with beef broth and lemon juice), beef marrow mayonnaise, fermented garlic, deep-fried quinoa and lightly roasted Hispi ( sweetheart ) cabbage harmmoniously complement – and ultimately help to create – a very exciting dish.
“For a small dish, there are many flavours and textures,” says Andreas Döllerer in explaining the success of the dish. “The heartiness of the marrow, the umami of Dashi, the seasoning, the toasted notes, the creaminess, the chrunchiness.”
On the plate, the puristic arrangement of all the components ensures a wow effect and has immense memory value: Those who just once had the Alpine Scallop on their plates will remember it for years!
The current restaurant menu: “Göll-Überquerung”